01.10.2019
I've scouted this route a couple of times and gotten way of course before. This time, I knew a route and built lots of cairns along the way.
ACCESS: Drive up the Twin Lakes road towards Yellow Aster Butte. Keep going past the nice road and up some water bars to the upper parking area between the two lakes (you'll need some higher clearance here). Note you need a day pass for this area from the ranger station (costs $5 and you can get it from an automatic machine they have set up).
Follow the trail towards Winchester Peak but then divert over to High Pass at the sign. You'll gain a bit of elevation and then drop a lot and then gain it again to get to the ridge line. Do not go all the way to the top of high pass - rather turn left off the main trail when you see the upper bowl of Larabee. There is a cairn, head towards the very large boulders and trend left across the talus to about halfway where you can see a weakness that leads to the ridge. I build over 20 cairns so it should be easier to navigate now.
Once on the ridge, you'll see the first gully you come to, that's your ascent gully. The rock is very bad and lose so wear a helmet, there's a lot of rock fall. After a lot of treadmill walking you'll reach the summit with outstanding views of American and Canadian border peak and the Chilliwack valley on the Canadian side. You'll also see Baker and Mount Shuksan, Tomyhoi and 360 degree panoramic views.
I think this a moderate scramble (no real exposure, just moving on a lose rock). Took me 3hrs up and 3 down. I used microspikes for the descent for snow control. Some huckleberries are still clinging to the lower bushes but they've gone through their daily freeze / thaw cycles now and are a bit squishy. We also found some swarming lady bugs on the summit - surprising this late in the season.
Do bring your winter gear now, it's freezing over night and COLD at the top. Gloves, hats, gators, microspikes all very useful :)
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