Sep 3, 2017
Normally done as an overnights from Keith's hut this is a totally reasonable day trip as well for fit parties. I had always feared this scramble and brought all the climbing gear I had and didn't end up using it. There's not much good info so adding details here. From the hut there's a trail going right (it's before you get to the hut) which you take to get to motel 66 - a camping plateau on the rocky ridge. Looking up from camp there's a steep snow slope, you can climb it but it's easier than just walk on the right side of the anniversary glacier and bypass it all. We just walked around all the rock and hooked right. Here you see a snow gully on the left and slabs and ledges on the right. Move up easy class 3. You'll eventually get to a horn which is the top of the snow fully you saw from camp. Trend left moving towards grassy ledges. You'll see a gully and just above the gully you'll see a ramp going right. Take the ramp and continue to work up class 3 rock to above the snow. You'll move along easy talus and then finally get to the crux which is a short descent onto a slab right above the Aussie couloir. There is some exposure here but the slab has perfect incut triangle steps and two parallel cracks you can Wedge your foot into. After the slab you'll see a pillar with two bright yellow streaks. Climb the face of it, grab high, smear, and step high. That's it, that's the hardest move on the route. After that it's a couple easy minutes to top on talus again. Note the entire upper area has black lichen so don't do this unless you have sunny weather and dry rock. For the return you have two rap stations for the 3rd class, we didn't use it and just down climbed but it could be necessary if the rock is wet or you have snow. You'll get stellar views of Matier and the lakes below :)
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