We did this as a BCMC trip. Once at the third lake (from Joffre Lakes parking lot) we approached the summit from the climbers left. Working our way up above the icefalls, then traversing the saddle towards the summit. A steep traverse, and then bootpacking up a narrow ridge got us up on top of the summit plateau. An ice axe was necessary to get to the true summit. A great 45 degree run back to the lake followed our summit shots.