A great hike with much variety along the way, but one that does require some route-finding skills and/or paying close attention to where the flagging goes. And do not believe the elevation stats for this hike: there is significant up and down in both directions and the total elevation is at least 50 per cent more than the official value.

The trail sets off into an old clearcut and requires a bit of scrambling over slippery logs, but it soon enters the unlogged forest and winds its way up, emerging from the trees after about 1.5 km. Then it's subalpine heather- and berry-filled meadows and great views for most of the rest of the way. Watch for flagging tape up to your right when you reach a viewpoint over a boulder-filled bowl: the trail goes up there and not into the bowl. If you miss it, you'll end up doing what we did which required picking our way up a steep slope.

The trail is locally very steep and potentially very slippery. There is one extremely steep section of about 10 metres that requires a lot of care to negotiate in both directions. The vegetation helps but don't trust it without testing first.

After a bit more up, then a lot of down and then a lot more up, the trail hits the alpine and becomes a route. There are a few cairns, but the way is obvious (unless visibility is poor). We went straight up through the boulders which was straightforward, but the initial ascent was up a steep and loose slope. Not fun, and yet somehow was much easier to descend. The twin summits are roughly equal in height and offer fantastic views of Pinecone Lake and all manner of peaks from the Lions to Sky Pilot to Tantalus to Garibaldi to Mamquam to a load of peaks I don't know all the way around to Judge Howay, the Five Fingers area and Meslilloet. Awesome!

Mamquam Main FSR is in decent shape, though there are lots of potholes. The E100 and E110 branches are in decent shape - a stock Pathfinder had no trouble getting to the trailhead. High clearance is definitely needed to get through the waterbars, 4wd is handy but might not be absolutely essential (although low range saves your brakes on the descent). The alder and willow are encroaching onto the roadway and will add plenty of pinstriping to your paintwork. Keep your windows closed so you don't get a branch in the eye - I had a near miss that I caught just in time. Allow 1.5 hours from highway 99 to the trailhead.